1. Place a plastic tarp over plants that are near the wooden fence. Put on a long-sleeve shirt, long pants, goggles and work gloves.
2. Clean the wooden fence with water from a power-washer. Use a power-washer that supplies 1,500 or 2,000 pounds per square inch (psi) of water pressure and features 15- and 25-degree spray tips. Standing 18 inches from the fence, slowly wash the fence with the power-washer, using long, back and forth motions. Continue the task until the entire surface on both sides of the fence is clean. Allow the fence to dry completely.
3. Examine the fence for damaged areas and missing boards. Mend or replace broken boards, and replace missing boards. Repairing broken or cracked wood with waterproof wood glue is recommended on The Family Handyman website.

4. Test an oil stain on an inconspicuous area of the fence to determine the product’s finished color. Revise the oil stain you will use if necessary. Apply a thin layer of the oil stain to all portions of the fence’s wood by using a medium-nap paint roller on the large sections and a paintbrush on edging and smaller slats. Use quick, fluid strokes in the direction of the wood’s grain.
5. Allow the first coat of oil stain to dry at least 24 hours, and then apply a second coat of oil stain. Apply a third coat of the oil stain, if desired, after the second coat dries at least 24 hours.

Tips. If the weather is damp or humid, allow a newly power-washed fence to dry for 48 hours before applying oil stain to its wood. Some home-improvement stores rent power-washers.

The post How to protect wooden fence from the elements first appeared on Capital Deck and Fence.

Give it a Cleaning

From the active summer months of barbeques, backyard parties, dirt, and burrowed debris, it’s always a good idea to get out a power hose along with a wood-safe cleaner and give the surface a good cleaning. If you need a little extra power, use a good scrubbing brush to get into those crevices.

Replace any Rotten Wood

As you go along cleaning the deck or fence, pay particular attention for signs of extreme rotting. If you notice a few sections that are rotting, you can hire a fence repair company to replace those slats with new wood. Ignoring these and simply covering them up with a protective finish will only allow the problem to fester. However if the support beams are rotten, it becomes a serious safety issue and it may be time for a new fence. You can purchase a new wood fence, or opt for a PVC fence, ornamental iron fence, or chain link fence instead.

Strip the Paint

Between dragging deck chairs around, the high foot traffic, and your furry loved ones running around, painted decks can start to wear down. If your painted/stained deck looks like it’s had a lot of wear and tear, you might want to consider stripping the paint off before applying a protective coat. This may take more time and effort, but it will not only help to keep the wood protected, but also make it look great for the next year.

Apply the Protective Coat

Once your deck or fence has been thoroughly cleaned, you can apply a water-repellent protective finish. You can select from a variety of colours and stains that suit your taste. Just ensure that you follow the instructions carefully and apply as many coats as required to get a strong seal from those winter elements.

Your wooden deck and fence are essential and costly features of your backyard. And after the wear and tear from the summer months, it’s important to do what you can to maintain them so that you can get the most out of them. Increasing the longevity means performing a few simple up-keeping tasks at the end of each summer. So be sure to refinish and protect your exterior wood surfaces so that they’re in great shape for the next year.

The post Prepare your wooden fence for winter first appeared on Capital Deck and Fence.

• Inspect

Before you begin it’s important to make sure that your fence is actually ready to stain. If you’ve recently had a northern white cedar fence installed, like the types of fences we install, you’ll need to let it “dry out” over a period of 5 weeks (or longer, if the weather has been wet or overcast). If you have an older fence that has been painted or stained before, or which has acquired mold, mildew, dirt, or other contaminants then you will first need to prepare your fence by pressure washing it. Don’t forget to refer to our post on the proper way to pressure wash your fence. If you have to pressure wash your fence then you’ll need to give it some time to dry before you proceed. The fence must not be wet when you begin the staining process.

• Weather

You will want to check the current weather and the upcoming weather before beginning your fence staining project. The temperature should be no colder than 10°C. You also want to choose a time where sunny, dry weather is expected for the next few days. Ideally you’ll have 2-3 dry days after your project to let the stain dry completely.

• Prepare

You will need a staining brush and a paint roller with a rough surface roller cover to proceed. The roller will get most of the stain on in broad strokes but the brush will allow you to reach the areas that the roller just can’t cover.

A staining brush is not the same as a paintbrush! A staining brush is larger and has a wider base of bristles. Most paintbrushes are not equipped to handle stain and will simply be ruined by the time you are done with them. If you want your project to look its best find the right tool for the task. It’s also a good idea to have some broad, plastic sheets to put down over plants and nearby sections of the house so that you don’t stain anything that you didn’t really mean to stain. You’ll also need some sandpaper, as you’ll want to make sure the wood is good and smooth before you begin. While a sprayer may look tempting it won’t save you as much time and work as you might think. Usually sprayers do not produce complete or consistent coverage which means that your fence won’t look as good as it could look or be as protected as it could be.

• Stain

Choosing the right stain isn’t just about choosing a color that you might enjoy. It’s also about the materials that the stain is made out of. We recommend oil-based stains over water-based stains. Oil-based stains last much longer: even when this stain grows “old” it doesn’t produce the same kind of cracking and chipping that water based stains can produce. Of course you will want to make sure to test your stain, either on a piece of scrap wood or a portion of the fence that nobody ever sees. Make sure you like the color and that the wood reacts well to the stain.

After the fence has been cleaned, dried, and sanded you can begin the actual staining. Use full, up and down brush strokes and work on one board at a time. If you have a very large fence you can work on different sections of the fence over time after letting the first section dry. If you have an old fence, and washing and staining it do not help you restore the fence to new or nearly new conditions, then it may be time to call us for a free estimate so that you can replace your fence.

The post Is it too late to stain my fence? first appeared on Capital Deck and Fence.

1. Check the damage
2. Determine the size of the damage
3. Clean the fence
4. Replace or repair the fence
5. Paint or stain the fence

1. Check the damage

Use a pry bar to check the areas of your fence which are broken. In case there are nails fixed to the wooden posts of your fence, use a pair of pliers to remove them. You need to always wear a pair of work gloves when you are mending a fence which was broken in bad weather.

2. Determine the size of the damage

Measure the broken sections of the fence by using a tape measure. Buy a new supply of wood to replace the broken pieces from the fence. Try to purchase wood that matches the one from your fence as much as possible. Measure the wooden post of the fence and use a rip saw to cut the wood to fit the measurements of your damaged fence.

3. Clean the fence

Remove the surface layer of aged wood can bring a new life to your fence. With a power washer, clean your fence. A power washer that operates at 1,500 or 2,000 psi max. Use 15- and 25-degree spray tips. The power washer’s spray will slightly raise and roughen the grain on smooth wood. This allows more sealer to soak in and improves the finish. The wood’s color will brighten as the surface is stripped away. Watch closely and stop stripping when no more color change occurs. You don’t have to remove too much surface to expose fresh wood, and continuing to spray won’t improve the color.

4. Replace or repair the fence

With the fence clean, it’s time to fix or replace damaged boards, refasten loose boards and countersink any protruding nails. Remove the damaged wooden posts and replace them with the new posts by installing them properly in the gap where the broken posts were once located. Place a level on the new post of the fence to make sure that it is straight. Use a hammer and nails to fix the posts to the frame of the fence. Make sure to hammer down the nails in even spaces between one another so that the new post is firmly fixed to the fence’s frame.

5. Paint or stain the fence

Before applying the stain, be sure the fence is dry. Allow at least 24 hours. If it’s cool and humid, allow another 24 hours. Apply paint to the surface of your wooden fence. Make sure that you using exterior paint of a very good quality to paint the fence. Let the exterior paint dry thoroughly after you finish painting and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Painting the fence is optional but it is a very good idea because it conceals the storm damage repair. To preserve the natural color of the wood, use an exterior semitransparent oil stain. It seals the wood while allowing the grain and color variations to show through. And its pigments add an overall color tone. Make sure the stain contains ultraviolet inhibitors, which will slow down bleaching by sunlight, and a mildewcide to slow fungal growth. Look for samples on cedar at the paint store, or bring in your own piece of wood to test. A test sample is the best way to ensure a satisfactory result. Most semitransparent oil stains are guaranteed to last two to five years. (Solid-color stains last longer but are more difficult to renew.) Fences usually face severe weathering, so expect the finish to last no more than three years. Plan on recoating the fence within this time frame to keep your fence looking fresh. Before recoating, wash the fence with a garden hose sprayer and use a bristle brush on stubborn dirt deposits and stains. Let the fence dry and stain it using the same method.

The post How to repair water damaged fence first appeared on Capital Deck and Fence.

Here’s a list of the pros and cons of some of the most common materials for building fences:

Wood. As the go-to material for thousands of years, wood is still one of the most common and versatile products for building sturdy fences. Even though it’s one of the most affordable options, wood fences are quite durable and will stand the test of time – with the proper maintenance. If there was a drawback to this material, it would be that a wood fence requires some regular maintenance as compared to fences made of other materials. However, with proper waterproofing (as with a paint or stain that fits your design) a wood fence can be the happy medium between functionality and aesthetic appeal.

Iron. Wrought iron fences call to mind pictures of stately Victorian homes with expensive landscaping, and for good reason. Real wrought iron is one of the most expensive materials to build a fence out of, but it is also the most durable and lasting. Even though wrought iron can rust when it’s scratched (nothing a bit of regular maintenance won’t fix,) it remains the most sturdy of all the fencing materials.

Today, most “wrought iron” fences are made out of steel, which is more affordable than iron, but only slightly. Still, you can get all of the aesthetic appeal without the hassle of regular maintenance.

PVC.  Also known as vinyl, PVC is a man-made, plastic-like material that is often used to build durable, low-maintenance fences. PVC is only slightly more expensive to install than a wood fence, but colors can be limited to pre-determined neutral shades like tan or white. Also, while a PVC fence may require little day-to-day maintenance, they can fade over time and may need replacing every decade or so.

Chain link. Chain links fences are great for putting up a fence quickly, affordably and when design isn’t your top priority. Both durable and inexpensive, a fence made of chain link will do a great job defining a boundary, but lacks merit for privacy.

The post How to choose the right fence material | Wood vs Iron vs PVC vs Chain-link first appeared on Capital Deck and Fence.

Source: https://ottawa.weatherstats.ca/charts/relative_humidity-yearly.html

To make your iron fence last, remove moisture as much as possible. It is quite impossible in the snowy season, however, removing any excess moisture as soon as the snow is gone can protect your fence. When the snow is gone and spring is peeking through, you can remove any vines, weeds or grass that might be growing around or onto the fence. Cover the surrounding areas, like vegetation or masonry, with tarps. Unwanted plants and vegetation can bring additional moisture to your fence.

But what happens if your fence has already rusted? Remove any evidence of rust using a fine wire brush. Do not use heavy corded wire because this will ruin the integrity of the fence. Afterward, rinse the fence using nonionic detergent and water and allow it to dry. Apply a rust converter to the areas where there is already rust; phosphoric-acid-based or tannic-acid-based converters are most appropriate. Follow all manufacturer instructions explicitly and wear all the required personal protective equipment.

Apply a thin coat of primer. Primer must be oil-based and made for metal applications. Allow it to dry fully. Spray-on primers are easier to apply and will get into the crevices of ornamental designs more easily than brush-on applications. Apply a finish coat of an oil-based paint that is designed for metal. Use a similar paint color if you can get one locally. Otherwise, contact the manufacturer to see if any touch-up paint is available. Maintain your fence’s paint job by cleaning the fence with soap and water once every six months. Apply a thin layer of metal-grade wax to the outside of the fence, especially in areas that are exposed to sprinklers and vegetation, to protect the paint’s surface. Replace missing fasteners or other gate and fence hardware with pieces of similar size and appearance, which you can get from local hardware or home improvement stores. Grease the hinges of the gates annually, or if the gate squeaks. Squeaky hinges mean they’re already too dry, so apply a general-grade lubricant to remoisten them.

One of our iron work in 2015. Contact us to see more examples.

The post Make Your Iron Fence Last first appeared on Capital Deck and Fence.

Location

Choose an area with plenty of morning sunlight and some afternoon shade. Most vegetables, especially fruiting types, do best with six to eight hours of full sun exposure. Leafy and root vegetables will tolerate partial shade. Don’t plant gardens under or near trees or large shrubs—their roots will rob fertility and water from vegetables. Don’t plant vegetables in the narrow shaded space between houses and walls. A loose, fertile, level, well-drained soil is best. If possible, avoid heavy clays and very sandy soils. If caliche is present it must be dug out and removed. Avoid areas that are crusted with alkali salts or infested with Bermudagrass, nutgrass or Johnson grass. A synthetic soil, self prepared or purchased, can be used in raised beds or containters (pots, tubs, boxes) if good soil is not available. Where the space is limited, container gardening can be practiced. A convenient water supply for irrigating is necessary

Layout

Planning ahead will help avoid problems and make your garden a complement to your landscape. First, sketch a plan of the intended planting area for vegetables. Write down the size of the area or location of containers. This is the beginning of a gardening notebook or journal. Decide on the vegetable species wanted. Select those that your household likes, that are adapted to your climate and practical for the location. If space is a problem, plant those that utilize space efficiently like bush varieties or bush beans, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, leaf lettuce, onions, radishes, Swiss chard, tomatoes, and turnips. Mark on the plan where the vegetables will be planted, making sure to leave room for growing space between plants. Also, list the planting date for each vegetable. Arrange plantings according to harvest periods and growth characteristics. Plant vegetables adjacent to each other which will be harvested about the same time. Avoid having taller plants shade younger and smaller vegetables. Use vertical space by trellising climbing crops.

Varieties

Gardening success can be greatly influenced by the varieties you use. Select from recommended lists and from those know to do well locally. It is a good idea to try one or two new varieties each year. Plant them next to old favorites for comparison. Keep a notebook or journal from year to year to note what varieties perform best. For mini-gardens, try bush or dwarf varieties and the more colorful ones. Seed catalogues will be a big help in finding these.

Equipment and supplies

Before planting, find a reputable source for seed and other garden supplies. Seed catalogs can be a big help, but be sure the varieties are locally adapted. Buy new seed since some seeds over a year old will not germinate (sprout) well. Select plants that are healthy, stocky, mediumsized, with vigorous roots and that are pest free. Have all equipment and tools clean and in good condition before working the soil. A hoe, spade, garden rake, trowel, measuring stick and planting line are essential. Study pest control recommendations to determine what may be needed after positively identifying the pest.

Soil foundation

To maintain and improve soil conditions, mix organic matter and fertilizers into the soil before planting, and prepare and cultivate the soil when dry or slightly moist (never when wet). Organic matter makes the soil loose (friable) and easy to work. It improves nutrient and water-holding capacity, drainage and aeration. Well rotted manure, compost, and leaf mulch are commonly used organic materials.

In preparing the seedbed, do not work the soil when it is too wet. Wait for it to dry sufficiently so it crumbles in your hands. When growing vegetables in close quarters or where good soil is not available, an artificial soil can be used. During the growing season fertilizers may be needed. However, too much fertilizer too close to the plant may injure plant roots.

Planting your vegetables

Most vegetables are started from seed or transplants. Seed can be sown directly into the garden soil, while transplants are started elsewhere and later planted into the garden. Harvest can be obtained sooner with transplants; however, it is more expensive and certain plants do not transplant well.

Irrigate

Proper watering can be accomplished by observing the plant and soil. Do not allow the plant to become stressed, wilted or slow-growing. On the other hand, too much water, especially on heavy soils, will exclude air from the root zone, resulting in poor growth. When the soil becomes crumbly upon squeezing, it’s time to irrigate. Moisture is needed around the seed for sprouting. Frequent watering will be needed to keep the soil adequately moist and prevent crusting of the surface. As the plant grows, the watering period should be longer, allowing deeper penetration through the root zone. Plants need to be watered more often during hot periods than cool periods. If a watering method moistens the plant foliage, irrigate in the morning so plants have time to dry during the day. This will lessen disease problems. Night time watering encourages disease growth. Plants growing in containers should be watched more closely for water needs because the roots are more crowded and temperatures of root media are more extreme. Keep soil moist but do not over-water. Make holes on the side and/or the bottom of the container for drainage and air.

Weed Control

Weeds compete with vegetables for water, nutrients and light. Weeds often harbor insects and diseases. Two important ways to keep down the weeds in and around your garden are mulching and cultivation.

Pest Control

Problems of the garden can be minimized by being prepared for them. Learn about the insects and diseases that commonly occur in the area and learn control methods. Whenever possible select disease resistant varieties. Soil problems can be reduced if the steps mentioned earlier are followed; however, crop injury from salt can appear if proper management has not been followed.

Harvest

Most vegetables are at peak quality for only a short period of time and should be harvested. Learn to tell the proper time to harvest each crop. Immature vegetables will not improve after harvest and overmature vegetables will be tough and lack the desired taste and texture.

The post Perfect Vegetable Garden in 10 Steps first appeared on Capital Deck and Fence.

The post The Ultimate Backyard Fencing Guide first appeared on Capital Deck and Fence.

2. Budget
Do some research online or call a reliable fence contractor to determine the price points for different fence options to achieve best value for money invested. For example as a rule of thumb wood is around twice the cost of residential chain link. So if privacy was not an issue then chain link would be the way to go.

You may be spending more than you had anticipated but remember that a fence is an investment and will increase the value of your property (as long as it fits the aesthetics of your neighbourhood). Always add some extra in your budget to cover unforeseen instances such as cost to repair a damaged drainage tile not shown on your property plan or replacement of some shrubs or ornamental trees that had to be removed to accommodate the fence.

3. Inform Your Neighbour
Approach your neighbour to discuss the proposed fence. It is the polite and neighbourly thing to do as it invades their vista and is a very personal thing as it butts onto their property. I remember starting a customer’s fence in the morning then having their neighbour arrive home for supper and see fence posts along their property line. They flipped! They had not been made aware of the project and took it as a personal affront thinking that my customer wanted to shut them out of their lives. After a little explanation for the reason of the fence and some soothing words I was able to diffuse the situation.

Had they been the more unreasonable type my customer may have had an offended and contentious neighbour for life.

4. Permits
Determine if your municipality requires you to take out a permit to install a fence. Most municipalities in Ontario do not require a permit for a fence but most do have bylaws regulating them. For instance they may limit the fence height and distance from the road allowance if you have a corner lot to keep vehicle sight lines clear at intersections, or so your neighbour can see to exit their driveway.

5. Property Lines
Ensure that you know where your property lines run. You can usually find the existing square metal property pins, if they aren’t buried too deep, by stabbing the ground at a 45 degree angle in the approximate area that the pins would be expected to be found. Newer pins are denoted with a white and red wooden stake above ground. Failing that a metal detector can be used. A property plan with house and lot dimensions is a great way to determine where to place your fence. You want to be sure that your fence is installed on your property!! If it is found later to be on your neighbours property they can make things miserable and expensive.
Have underground locates for utilities done. In Ontario a simple call to Ontario One Call (ON1CALL) at 1-800-400-2255 is all it takes to have gas, electrical and telecommunications located. You can also go to www.on1call.com. Your water and sewer lines must be located by your municipality. All locating services are free of charge. Drainage tiles may be more difficult to locate. Your home builder may be able to tell you or you could have someone experienced in water “witching” find them for you. We as a fencing company hand dig by the foundation where your fence is most likely to intersect with a tile.

Every fence and circumstance is different but these items should make you well prepared to start your project.

Call us today at 613-413-7572 or contact us online.

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The post How to plan for a fence installation – THE CORRECT WAY first appeared on Capital Deck and Fence.

Follow these expert tips to ensure the safety of your furry friends at home. As a pet owner, it’s important to ensure your yard is safe and secure. This is essential for the safety of your pets, both in preventing them from escaping, and preventing strays from accessing the yard.

1. Fence it!

Dogs are crafty little creatures, they seem to always find a way to either escape or injure themselves. Whether that be digging themselves under the fence, jumping over the fence, or in some cases literally going straight through the fence. So, in securing your yard, the first step involves taking a walk along the perimeter of your fence, and fixing any potential breaches to the security of your fence.

• If there are any holes in the fence, patch them up. Even if your yard has a fence, a wiggly pup can easily slip through tiny gaps or holes you may not notice. Regularly check the fence in your yard to make sure it is secure before letting your dog out in the yard.
• If your dog is a furry Einstein and has managed to work out how to open the latch, fix it, replace it, or add another level of security.
• If your dog digs, place cement blocks below the fence or run chicken wire a couple of feet underground. Always try to make sure there is some ground available inside the yard for your dog to dig.
• If your dog or cat is a jumper, ensure there are no objects near the fence that your pet could use as a launch platform. If the problem persists, either place an inward extension at the top of the fence with chicken wire, or as a last resort you could place an electric wire along the top of the fence. Obviously it would be ideal to avoid having to go down this path.
• If you have a swimming pool, put a fence around it. Even if your dog is a strong swimmer, he or she should never be left unattended in a yard with a pool. Your dog should know how to safely enter and exit the pool from an early age.

If you are getting a fence for the first time, check out our post on “Things to Know Before Getting a Fence” and “Pros and Cons of Vinyl/PVC Fences, Wood Fences, Iron Fences and Chain Link Fences“. It will save you lots of trouble and regrets later.

2. Clean it!

So now you might have got your fences down pat but fleas tend to live in dark, humid areas like outdoor dog homes, decks and outdoor structures such as sheds. Sweep off patios, clean under your deck and remove debris from outdoor structures to prevent fleas from congregating in your yard. Need some help on how to do this? Check out our posts on “How to Maintain PVC fencing: 4 Easy Steps” or “Iron Gate Maintenance” or “How to Maintain Your Deck“ or “How to Maintain Wooden Fences“.

3. Secure it!

If you have failing gazebo posts, decks. Secure them. You don’t want your dog to injure him/herself when playing. If you keep your compost or trash cans or recycling bins in your backyard, keep the area secure. If you can’t secure the area, you should secure the bins with appropriate lids.

4. Store it!

Liquids such as fuel, cleaning supplies and antifreeze (which can be fatal to dogs), need to be stored out of reach of your dog. Bug or rat bait and herbicides should be used with caution and stored properly, as they can also be fatal to dogs. Insecticides can help curb bug problems, but when applied heavily, may be toxic to dog. Try to avoid using insecticide when possible or talk to your veterinarian about the best way to use such chemicals. Keep your dog off lawns that have recently been treated with insecticides, pesticides or fertilizers.

4. Avoid it!

Synthetic chemicals might be under control, but mother nature is cruel too. Certain flowers and plants such as from the daisy (Asteraceae) family are phototoxic to small animals. These plants contain chemicals that when react with light create irritations, blisters and sores. Further more, ticks will use tall grasses and branches in your yard to hitch a ride onto your dog’s skin. To help keep ticks at bay trim back high, tall grasses and remove debris.

5. Fetch it!

Now that your backyard is rid of any potential hazards, but is your dog safe from him/herself?  A bored dog is an unhappy dog. This will lead to attempts at escape or reckless behaviours. Lots of treats, toys, affection, exercise and attention will control the escapist behaviour. If after all of this, you still find that your dog or cat is escaping, it’s probably worth seeking the guidance of a behavioural specialist and possibly considering building a small circular enclosure in the yard which can be used to securely keep your animals safe while you are away.

6. Learn it!

Know your climate. In the summer, dehydration and heat sickness can be very real threats. Make sure to give your pup plenty of breaks in the shade, access to fresh water and the ability to go inside if he/she needs it. In the winter, Ottawa gets very cold. Keep your dog inside.

The post How To Dog Proof Your Backyard first appeared on Capital Deck and Fence.